Bibbers

 

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 14 Mar 2002

1994 Premium Cabs at

 

The Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel


Wine List
(In order of ranking by vote)

I.  1996 Ch. St. Jean Cinq Cepages (bag 4)
(Everyone voted this wine as 1st, 2nd or 3rd choice)
II.  1994 Joseph Phelps Insignia (bag 9) - (Winner)
III.  1994 Silver Oak Napa (bag 11)

IV.  1994 Ch. Montelena (bag 8)
V.  1994 Vine Cliff (bag 6)
VI.  1994 Columbia Crest (bag 1)
VII.  1994 Opus One (bag 12)
VIII.  1994 Beringer Private Reserve (bag 10 )
IX.  1994 Von Strasser Diamond Mtn. (bag 2)
X./XI.  1994 Greenwood Ridge (bag 7)
X./XI.  1994 Anapamu (bag 3)
XII.  1994 Silverado Limited Reserve (bag 5)

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Special Comments:  Msr. Jean-Marie Johnston attended by Dave L.'s invitation and his 25 years in the wine business in France make his comments and selections particularly interesting and very valuable.

His top 5 choices were:

1 - Ch. St. Jean Cinq Cepages
2 - Chateau Montelena
3 - Beringer Private Reserve
4 - Vine Cliff
5 - Von Strasser

He remarked that the Cinq Cepages impressed him from the first pass to the finish.  He said it had excellent balance.  He was unimpressed with the other 7 wines and faulted the Opus One with brett infection.   He also said the Anapamu and Greenwood Ridge were severely flawed wines possibly from incorrect storage on the Greenwood Ridge.  The Anapamu (from Monterey County) had an overpowering aroma and flavor of green bell peppers.

Thank you for your comments Jean-Marie.


Brettanomyces ("Brett")

Someone asked what "brett" was and I don't think they got an answer.  I don't remember where I got this from, but it was one of the best explanations of brett that I have ever seen:

The winemaker can choose from a number of yeasts when producing wine. Perhaps the winemaker will rely on "wild yeasts."  But even when carefully choosing the yeast, a winemaker may find that "stray" yeasts may also affect the wine.  One such yeast is called the Brettanomyces strain of yeast also called "Brett," (which can be added or come from wild yeast fermentation).  Found in some beers, it is considered by some (especially in California) to be almost completely undesirable in wine.  (Some say it is linked to development of 4-ethylphenol.)  Mostly this depends on your taste, it certainly is found in some French wine (but is never good in excess).  Look for meaty/gamy/smoky/sweaty socks or perhaps metallic notes such as rust.

That's the short answer about Brett, but the fact is that this is one of the more controversial discussions, for it brings into play several favorite areas of contention - The University of California and the idea of just what is winemaking, art, science or what?

A little (but not a lot) of Brett can let a wine become distinctly individual.  However, many California vintners consider any Brett at all a major flaw.  Naysayers like to say that this is due to the influence of the University of California at Davis (UCD) which, they say, somehow causes their students to produce standardized "cookie-cutter" wine.  Brett is definitely found is some French wines, especially Burgundies and some Rhône wines.  Nevertheless, finding Brett for some is a major problem - even a defect making the wine unworthy of purchase.

For some reason whether or not Brett can be found in a wine has generated a huge amount of cyber-rattling. (Could I have just invented a phrase?)  That finding Brett in a wine is a "problem" that taints a winery (and, I guess, for that reason only gives them something to talk about).  The more down-to-earth wine enthusiasts merely say they don't care where the taste comes from: if they like it, fine, if not, don't drink it. Whether or not something is a "problem" is very much a matter of individual taste.

To eliminate Brett does mean that any of the characteristics it imparts will also not be present.  Does this make the wine less interesting?  Does it make the winemaker less individualistic?  Since, in the end, you can find the wine of your choosing in all the varieties produced both in California and world-wide, why not just vote with taste buds and pocket book?

One more thing about "wild yeast fermentation."  The process gives the "aura" of a handcrafted product.  It is important to remember that not all handcrafted products are quality products!


Attendees:  Linden, Jean-Marie, John, Dave L., Dave B., Dave W., Terry, Larry,  A. David, Server Mr. John McCollum

My tasting rating (0-10):  8

 


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A most excellent Bibbers!
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A. David Chan
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