Larry The FoBer FoB
at Melisse, Santa Monica
24 Sept 2002
Theme: Sonoma, Not Pomona, Not Yer Sister Ramona
Wine List:N/V Nicolas Feuillate Champagne
1997 J. Rochioli, Old Vines, Russian River Vly, Sauvignon Blanc
1994 Kistler, McCrea Vyd., Sonoma Mountain, Chardonnay
1997 Neyers, Theriot Vyd., Sonoma Coast, Chardonnay
1994 Dehlinger Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Vly.
1994 Gary Farrell, Allen Vyd., Pinot Noir
1994 J. Rochioli Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Vly.
1997 J. Rochioli, West Block Vyd., Pinot Noir
1997 J. Rochioli, Three Corners Vyd., Pinot Noir
1997 J. Rochioli, Little Hill Vyd., Pinot Noir
1997 Arrowood Syrah , Saralee's Vyd., Russian River Vly.
1997 A. Rafanelli Zinfandel , Dry Creek Vly.
1997 Navarro Vineyards, Cluster Select Late Harvest White Riesling
- Menu -
-- Appetizers --
Assorted Hors d'Oeuvres
Crispy Rock Shrimp Cake with Osetra Caviar
Miniature Garden Tomato Tart with Sweet Balsamic Onions and Goat Cheese
Seared Tuna with Shiitake Mushrooms, Baby Bok Choy and Roasted Mushroom Sauce
with Champagne and
’97 Rochioli Sauvignon Blanc, Old Vines, Russian River Valley
WA91 – The superb 1997 Sauvignon Blanc Old Vine Block comes from a vineyard block planted in 1959, and believed to be the oldest Sauvignon Blanc vines in Sonoma. The wines offer a terrific Pouilly-Fume-like, liquid stone, smokey-scented nose intertwined with aromas of ripe, honeyed citrus fruit. Surprisingly full-bodied, with an exuberance, richness, and intensity rarely encountered in Sauvignon Blanc, this impressive offering should drink well for 4-5 years. (12/98)
WS93 - Effusively fragrant, with rich honeysuckle, fig, mint and herb notes. On the palate, it sings with grapefruit, melon and lemon lime flavors, bright herbal notes and a long finish. Sleek, firm and elegant. Drink through 2002. 308 cases made.
-- First Course --
Maine Lobster “Thermidor”
Lobster Cooked in Court Bouillon with a Lobster Mustard Glaze
with
Sonoma Coast v. Sonoma Mountain Chardonnays
’97 Neyers Chardonnay, Theriot Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
WA93 – The 1997 Chardonnay Theriot Vineyard is less involved than its three siblings, with more zesty acidity. It is a full-bodied, powerful, rich Chardonnay, with the most potential for aging. This chewy wine’s acidity buttresses its enormously concentrated fruit. Mineral notes give it a more tightly-knit, complex style. A sensational Chardonnay, it will be at its best by summer/fall 1999 and last for 3-4 years. (12/98)
WS93 - Packs in lots of richness and flavor, with a range of ripe fig, pear, anise, oak and spice. Sharply focused, deep and concentrated, finishing with a tangerine edge. Drink now through 2002. 461 cases made.
’94 Kistler Chardonnay, McCrea Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain
WA91-94 – Looking for a grand cru white Burgundy-like wine with plenty of smoky, roasted nut, honeyed-apple/tangerine-like rich fruit? The full-bodied, super concentrated 1994 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard could easily be mistaken for a top grand cru from Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. It is rich, ripe, complex, and very appealing. It should drink well for 4-5 years. (12/95)
WS95 - Manages to deliver a rich core of flinty, spicy pear and anise notes while showing its young, tight, complex and concentrated nature. A remarkably well focused Chardonnay with a long, full finish that keeps pumping out the flavors. 2,765 cases made.
-- Second Course --
Stuffed Quail
Celery Root Puree, Pistachio Emulsion, Black Trumpette Mushrooms, Natural Jus
with
Russian River Valley
’94 Rochioli Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
WS91 - Smooth, rich and complex, with a nice integration of cherry, berry and currant flavors, light toasty oak shadings. Delicious, from start to finish. Ready to drink. 1,800 cases made.
’94 Dehlinger Estate Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
WA91 – The gorgeous, flamboyant 1994 Pinot Noir Estate possesses sweet, ripe, layered flavors, and a knock-out nose of spices, red and black fruits, earth, and smoke. At 14.5% alcohol, the wine has gobs of glycerin and a sweet mid-palate (from extract and glycerin, not sugar). Full, rich, and loaded with personality and flavor, it is a classic Russian River Pinot Noir. (12/96)
’94 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir, Allen Vineyard
WS95 - Total seduction. Who will not fall in love with this? It's ripe, lush, sweet and smooth. Clean, pure and well defined in its floral, violet, wild raspberry and spice aromas, it coats the palate with silky tannins and ripe flavors that keep going. Bravo!
-- Third Course --
Colorado Lamb Loin Grenoblaise and Lamb Shank En Cocotte
Eggplant Confit, Potato Gnocchi and Roasted Pepper Coulis
withRochioli Terroir Research
’97 Rochioli Pinot Noir, West Block
WA88-90+ Classic black cherry aromatics intermixed with smoky new oak jump from the glass of the 1997 Pinot Noir West Block. This dark ruby/purple-colored wine, aged in 100% new Francois Freres oak, is full-bodied, tighter than its predecessors, but nicely layered, with a sweet kirsch and black cherry-like flavors, good glycerin, and fine purity. The slightly angular and tannic finish in this compressed example kept my score conservative.
WS93 - Tight, firm, ripe and spicy, it turns fleshy, with a complex, intriguing range of black cherry, plum and raspberry. Finishes with firm, crisp tannins. Best from 2000 through 2006. 458 cases made.
’97 Rochioli Pinot Noir, Three Corners
WA90-92 Exhibits a dark/ruby purple color, a sweet plum, black currant, and cherry-scented nose, silky-textured, medium to full-bodied flavors, and a smoky, toasty finish. The wine presents a seamless style and wonderful sweet fruit, without tasting overbearing or weighty. The alcohol level must be close to 14%, but the taster will never sense that given the wine’s concentration and depth. Look for this Pinot Noir to evolve nicely for 5-7 years.
WS88 - Tight and a touch earthy, but it turns complex, with elegant, mushroomy black cherry, wild berry and spice notes. Drink now through 2004. 121 cases made.
‘97 Rochioli Pinot Noir, Little Hill
WA92-95 My favorite Pinot Noir in the Rochioli stable. It boasts a saturated purple color, followed by a spectacular nose that could easily pass for the crème de cassis/black raspberry liqueur found in a top-notch Richebourg. The vineyard, which is planted in extremely rocky soil, achieved sugars that produced a wine with 13.8% alcohol. Aged in 50% new Francois Freres barrels, with the balance one-year old, this wine’s silky texture is crammed with glycerin as well as concentrated red and black fruits. Floral scents and smoky pain grille notes add to the wine’s appeal and complexity. This full-bodied, gorgeously complete and concentrated Pinot Noir should be drunk over the next 5-6 years.
WS 90 - Rich and focused, with complex, concentrated black cherry, currant and plum flavors that hold their focus and linger on the finish, where the tannins are mild. Drink now through 2004. 303 cases made.
-- Fromage --
Assorted Cheeses
with
Russian River, Dry Creek Valley and Lytton Springs
’97 Arrowood Syrah, Saralee’s Vineyard, Russian River Valley
WA90-92 The evolved, rich syrah has 7% Viognier fermented in the vats with the Syrah. While not the blockbuster “a la” the 1995 and 1996, it is still a sexy, succulent, exotic Syrah with loads of blackberry and cassis fruit intermingled with a touch of honeysuckle. This fruit-driven wine should provide delicious as well as charming drinking at an early age and last for 7-10 years. (12/98)
WS91 - Ripe and concentrated, with well integrated blueberry, plum, violet and coffee flavors. Excellent length, and drinks well now. Drink now through 2007. 968 cases made.
’97 A. Rafanelli Zinfandel, Dry Creek Valley
WA90 – Once again Rafanelli has fashioned one of the vintage’s stars. In a year where too many Zinfandels taste as if the grapes were harvested too early from an overly abundant crop, Rafanelli’s 1997 exhibits superb purity, wonderful fruit, and the classic black raspberry/cherry, spicy Zinfandel aromatic and flavor profile. The wine’s deep ruby/purple color is followed by a sweet attack, full-bodied flavors, copious quantities of black fruits, and a long, lusty finish. This is what Zinfandel should be! According to the label, there is 14.5% alcohol, which is neither wimpish nor excessive. Enjoy this beauty over the next 5-6 years. (6/99)
WS85 - A touch tart and on the light side for this winery, with cranberry, cherry, strawberry and spice. Turns elegant, with mild tannins. Drink now through 2003. 6,900 cases made.
-- Dessert --
Apple Tart
Almond Ice Cream and Sauce Terre et Mer
with
(OK, so we’re leaving Sonoma…sorry…)
’97 Navarro Vineyards White Riesling, Cluster Select Late Harvest
WS86 - Sweet, with a core of citrus tinged pear, apricot, baked apple and spice. Finishes clean, with lively acidity, but lacks the extra dimensions often found in this wine. Drink now through 2006. 554 cases made.
